Sierra del Escambray, 5km from Trinidad, was the scene of two episodes of revolutionary history between 1958 and 1965. The mountains peak at 1 140m-high Pico de San Juan. Though of modest elevation, it is a rugged landscape with gushing torrents and fluctuating temperatures. Head up the winding paths through the scrub to the Gran Parque Natural Topes de Collantes among the coffee plantations, eucalyptus and tree ferns growing on a carpet of lichen.