All streets seem to lead to Plaza Mayor, a spot it is hard to tire of. Guarded by two bronze greyhounds and divided up into gardens shaded by gracious palm trees, this central square basks in the sun. It is surrounded by gems of Baroque architecture, sensitively restored and some decked out in gleaming colours: palaces converted into museums or modest yet charming casas, piously watched over by the Iglesia Parroquial and enlivened by the odd bodeguita.