Ueno is a fascinating neighbourhood that is full of contrasts. On the one hand it has a huge park, which was once the place of resistance of the last samourais. It is now planted with trees and littered with museums (including the must-see Tokyo National Museum), in front of which long queues form. On the other hand, it is a hectic urban centre with a popular market that draws the crowds day and night with its stalls and restaurants flashing with neon lights.