A former geisha neighbourhood, nowadays Kagurazaka feels almost like a village, with its quiet little streets, stalls that spill onto the pavements, music from everyday life, modest-size buildings and craftsmen's workshops. Around Kagurazaka-dori, a sloping street lined with trees, don't be surprised if you hear French being spoken, as this is Tokyo's French area, with French restaurants, bakeries, wine bars and book shops.