The district of Kabuki-cho (East Shinjuku) may seem sleepy during the day but it reveals its true colours when the neon signs light up. This is the mafia's fief - so keep your head down - and full of all sorts of seedy establishments, from "love hotels" to massage parlours and casinos to karaoke halls. After working hours, the Japanese particularly enjoy these social interludes during which it is possible to speak freely with colleagues and managers.