A climb to the fortified summit and the Inca ruins of Ollantaytambo, a major urban, agricultural, military and religious centre, can hardly be described as leisurely. You will have to climb terraces that seem to stretch as far as the eye can see, under the eye of the Viracocha deity carved into the mountain face. But when you reach the top, you will be rewarded by the sight of six huge blocks of stone, remains of the old Sun Temple, whose transport must have required a titanic feat of engineering.