The view is extraordinary from the middle of Moskvorestky Bridge, which provides access to Moskova Island and the Zamoskvorechye quarter beyond it. To the left are the high walls of the Kremlin overlooking the river with their towers, steeples and domes emerging from the ramparts and shining brightly whenever a ray of sunlight falls on them. The onion domes of the Cathedral of Basil the Blessed straight ahead are a riot of colour and whimsy.