GOUM was the state department store. Built in the late 19C, it is crisscrossed with passageways connecting its galleries and topped by glazed ceilings and is now a temple of triumphant capitalism. With the exception of the legendary gourmet delicatessen Gastronom N° 1, it is home to the same high-street brands found in all European capitals. Yet the magic remains, and a few small cafés provide a welcome opportunity to rest for a while.