Dasha Zhukova has placed Moscow among the world's leading centres of contemporary art. The private collection of oligarch Roman Abramovich's ex-wife is the subject of remarkable exhibitions organised in a gigantic Soviet restaurant renovated by Rem Koolhaas. The star architect designed a superb setting, opening onto Gorky Park with a translucent facade and a large brick hall adorned with original mosaics. A triennial art event is organised there - one for the diary!