On the doorstep of Munster valley, this “new inn” is a fully refurbished former posthouse. On the ground-floor, an Alsace bistro regales diners on weekday lunchtimes. Upstairs, the gourmet restaurant sports a suitably rustic, half-timbered dining room. Bernard Leray, who hails from Rennes in Brittany, has taken to Alsace like a stork to its nest. After honing his skills at Bernard Loiseau, Leray puts a delicate new spin on local produce. All his dishes demonstrate his painstaking work and consummate technique, as in this fillet of pike-perch with red cabbage and squash “fleischnaka”, red-wine reduction.