The owner-chef, born and raised in Iriya, is an artisan through and through. Proceedings are by the book, starting with milder flavours like tiger prawn, squid and sillago before proceeding to bolder tastes. Edomae toppings are favoured, such as tidepool gunnel and big-eyed flathead. Decorating the walls are senshagaku, wooden tablets typically posted on the pillars of shrines, inscribed with local supporters’ names. The characters suffuse the restaurant with the atmosphere of old neighbourhoods.