In Shimbashi Ekimae Building, known as an oasis in the business district, you’ll find the earnest figure of Haru-chan, the female chef. Pop art adorns the walls and billboards symbolise the shop. The ramen is served in a dashi of pork bones and dried sardines and flavoured with salt and lard; the flat noodles have a plump, full texture. A bowl of piping-hot ramen fills the stomach and lends strength for a day’s work.