Working with his predecessor, the owner-chef has over a quarter of a century of experience. He chooses his pork not on brand but on quality, tenderness and the sweetness of the fat. The tonkatsu of pork loin and tenderloin is pale in hue. Deep-fried slowly at a low temperature, the aroma of the coating draws out the meat umami even more. Inheriting the teachings of his mentor, he carefully controls the heat as he cooks. It’s no wonder diners have been coming regularly since he opened.