"Irasshaimase" – this is the exclamation with which diners are greeted here. Housed in the building that was once home to Europe's first indoor tennis courts, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa's restaurant buzzes with infectious vibrancy. The wide-ranging menu features a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisines – everything is prepared in the open kitchen (there is also a sushi bar). The black cod miso is definitely worth trying.