Those who think that all sushi counters are stiff and unapologetically expensive should take a hard look at this easy-going iteration in Noe Valley. While the dining room is ideal for larger groups looking for casual à la carte items like maki, tempura, and sashimi, the well-tread counter is a favorite among Chef Jiro Lin’s loyal fan base, each of whom enjoy quality nigiri at remarkably reasonable prices.Chef Lin flexes his creative muscles by complementing the likes of salt-cured tile fish, aged hamachi, and sea-perch with a potent dose of wasabi, Japanese chili pepper, and fish liver. First timers should call ahead for reservations, as this counter boasts weekly regulars, including wine geeks particularly besotted by their tightly curated list.