You’ll need to allow plenty of time to get to the inland village of San Desiderio, where Bruxaboschi has been run by the same family and delighting guests since 1862, but the journey is certainly worth it. Justifiably famous, the cuisine pays tribute to local traditions (almost exclusively based on meat), starting with an excellent cima alla Genovese (a type of meat loaf), picagge and pansotti pasta dishes, and fried rabbit. Don’t miss the mushrooms in season.