At the foot of Cathédrale St Front, a restaurant named after the fictional detective. What would his legendary little grey cells have made of the 16C dining room with its pale stone vaulted ceiling? He would no doubt have detected the sincerity behind the deliciously revamped recipes based on produce from the exceptional terroir of the Dordogne: terrine of semi-cooked foie gras and passion fruit jelly or pan-fried duck breast and pears poached in red wine.