As well as being a wealthy bourgeois and one-time owner of this house, the oldest in Paris (1407), was Nicolas Flamel also an alchemist? Historians still disagree, but food connoisseurs are in no doubt that the chef transforms every ingredient he touches into culinary gold. Langoustine, Belgian endive and a clementine-flavoured consommé of claws; pithivier of mallard, foie gras and truffle; confit of quince with kalamansi and ginger: dishes that are perfectly balanced, delicately flavoured, intelligently composed and free of superfluous frills.