The great classics of the French culinary repertoire are given an overhaul here by Jean-François Piège. Service on a silver tray, old-fashioned bistro decor, zinc counter: it has all the trappings. It's Audiard's Paris down to a T... right down to the food: onion gratinée, quenelle of arctic char, beef chuck hash, Colbert fried whiting with tartar sauce.