The cooks here understand the essence of regional Mexican cuisine, so trust in their skills and do not be disillusioned by the menu line that reads "substitutions are graciously declined.” Many of these dishes offer a spin on traditional items, as in the citrus-tinged achiote pork that tops creamy black beans and puffed corn tortillas in panuchos de Yucatán. Tacos are a signature for good reason; and the Puebla with spicy sausage, carne asada, smoked applewood bacon, and morita salsa delivers just the right level of piquancy.This special haven also makes the most of its idyllic setting, amid a score of antique shops with an open front that spills onto the street. Thanks to backlit shelves lined with tequila bottles, the vibe inside is warm and inviting.