There are three Indian Accents: New Delhi is the most glamorous and London the most intimate. New York however delivers the most bustle, but they all celebrate the increasing sophistication of this sub-continent’s cuisine by offering contemporary specialities and elevated street food from a number of regions in balanced, well thought out tasting menus. The clued-up staff knows their syllabus and offers sound recommendations.There are other similarities, not least in the fact that some dishes, like the ghee roast lamb with roti, appear in all three. The best items, however, are often those that could persuade you to take up vegetarianism full time, including the sweet potato shakarkandi or baby idlis that feature extra firepower courtesy of “gunpowder.”