Few settings are cozier than this contemporary West Village den, which opened back in 2020 on quiet Cornelia street. The narrow, soothing space is dressed in elegant wood tones, cushy banquettes, and textured walls. The food, meanwhile, is something of an adventure and leans on classic Chinese flavors. Think warm, flaky scallion puffs with scallion butter or spicy cumin lamb reimagined as a cold tartare. Rice cakes channel mapo tofu but with butternut squash and chili-fermented broad beans. This is not fusion cooking, but it’s not traditional either. Portions are petite so believe the staff when they push you to order a few more plates. The wine list, meanwhile, bends natural and flaunts an impressive range of domestic wineries at fair prices.