There’s nothing like a discreet entrance to raise expectations—and Hirohisa is nicely concealed on Thompson Street. When you do find it, you enter into a stylish and beautifully understated room. The menu is structured as a kaiseki experience. Two things will quickly become clear: the ingredients are exceptional, and the team's technical skills are considerable. This is food that is as rewarding to eat as it is restorative. Standouts include mushroom zosui, a comforting bowl with a base of rice topped with a multitude of earthy mushrooms. The meal concludes with a satisfying pot of rice enhanced with snow crab, ikura, and crab roe.