Park Avenue South may be brimming with restaurants—from expense account beauties to the massively trendy—but this dining room will stop you in your tracks. First with its looks (imagine an inviting bar that anchors the room up front, while the back is crowned by a raw bar and sushi counter); and then with its enticing cooking.If the glistening items on ice didn't give you the hint, seafood reigns, with local plus global sourcing and preparations ranging from ceviche and sushi to towering platters and delicious entrées. Toro tartare with caviar is a particular highlight, as is the East-meets-West Alaskan black cod with a sake glaze, braised bok choy, mushroom and yuzu dashi. Buttermilk panna cotta with cranberry mousse is a great way to wrap things up.