One bite makes it clear that this kitchen boasts a skilled chef and owner—Emanuel Concas. His menu—which reads like a proper lesson in regional Italian cooking—and list of aperitivos has been known to sate many a palate. Pastas are made in-house and may include cannelloni al forno with béchamel, parmigiano and short rib ragú. Then indulge in wood-fired delicacies that prove the chef’s Sardinian roots, like bottarga di muggine di Cabras liberally shaved over pici; or seadas, featuring a fritter filled with pecorino and topped with honey. Seal your meal with a springtime treat, like pastiera napoletana, composed with egg, ricotta, vanilla and citrus.Take a moment to appreciate the olive oil at the heart of this food and pick up a bottle or two to go.