In many ways the ideal neighbourhood restaurant, this seafood-centric spot comes with sensible pricing, on-the-ball service and a warm welcome from its passionate owner. The cooking takes a sustainable, 'fin-to-scale' approach that's typified by their use of fish collars – an underappreciated ingredient finally allowed its moment in the sun here. While there are a few meat and vegetable options on offer, the focus is largely on eco-friendly fish and shellfish fashioned into understated dishes.