A tremendous ambassador of the Mediterranean art de vivre, the Provençal country estate of Baumanière promises a uniquely tranquil, bucolic and elegant experience – this location has captivated artists and celebrities for decades. Within these centuries-old walls, chef Glenn Viel (now a judge on French TV's Top Chef) is clearly enjoying an increasing sense of freedom in his cooking. He draws inspiration for his Mediterranean fare from the wealth of local produce (olive oil from the Vallée des Baux, organic vegetables from the estate's own garden, chicken and pork) but also remains true to the food culture of his native Brittany. The chef's cuisine (often served in ceramic tableware created on site) demonstrates his continual efforts to revive all the traditional methods of cooking over an open fire, expanding on the concept of thermal inertia, or "carryover cooking". The success of this approach is brilliantly illustrated by the incomparable textures of the fresh razor clams and the Costières squab in a hay and rosemary crust. Glenn Viel is a master saucier, enhancing his dishes with robust jus and intensely flavoured reductions – the ideal seasoning. His pursuit of authentic flavours is reflected in the original and decadent desserts of patissier Brandon Dehan; indeed, the pair share a strong bond. The remarkable service embraces the establishment's long-standing traditions. A 3 000-label-strong wine cellar.