This is a counter kappo from Wakuden, which is bringing innovation to Kyoto cuisine. The counter, arrayed around the kitchen, makes guests feel part of a single group. The fare is grounded in a philosophy of ‘rustic beauty and refinement’. This principle is the inspiration for ‘Nariaiyaki’, pike conger at the end of its season, wrapped in matsutake mushrooms and grilled. Rumour has it that the dish is modelled after the view from Nariaiji Temple near Amanohashidate in Miyazu Bay.