Owner-chef Takuji Takahashi is heir to a multi-generational tradition of Kyo-ryori and one of the pioneers showing the way to its future. The ‘Kiyamachi-grilled Hamo’ is a fitting dish for Kyoto. Two layers of hamo are piled front-to-back so that the flesh between the layers of skin creates a ‘river and river’ effect. This represents the Kiyamachi district, bounded by the Kamo and Takase rivers. Both new and old dishes are conceived in the spirit of fueki-ryuko, or fluidity and immutability.