Adrian Semp and Marc Schnierer run SAMS – the name is made up of their initials – in a reduced-traffic zone in the city centre. The open kitchen, visible from the entrance, turns out an exciting range of dishes: there is an ambitious seasonal set menu, but classics such as beef tartare are also served as well as "pearls of the sea" such as lobster, oysters and caviar. Sleek interior design, muted colours and decorative details such as half-timbering and pictures make for a cosy setting with a modern feel. Friendly service and astute wine recommendations.