The location opposite the railway station may not be the height of glitzy glamour, but Jérémy Bonhivers’ inspired cooking quickly puts paid to any misgivings. Delicate, tasty recipes, subtly perfumed with flowers, herbs and young shoots set the scene for a fine dining experience. To be sampled either in the minimalist dining room or, weather permitting, on the terrace and patio abutting the picturesque René Cassin Square.