This owner-chef, who was born in Auvergne of Dutch parents, deploys his culinary talent in this modern, designer-inspired workshop, depicted by an open kitchen, grey stone floor, rough wood planking and bare light bulbs. An inspired mechanic, he gets a kick out of fine-tuning dishes that are as delicate as they are inventive, made with ingredients from nearby (Boudes lamb, Mézenc beef, Billom black garlic) and further afield (brill from Brittany, Vendée eels). The memory of his beef tartare, wild white asparagus, strawberry pickles and a cream of egg yolk, beurre blanc and herb dashi lingers with us still. The greeting and the service are both professional and refreshingly unstarched.