Julie and Sébastien Bonnet have settled in a picturesque village a few kilometres from Crest, their previous headquarters. In an edifice dear to his heart (it was formerly the Demeure de Grane, a local institution where he carried out his apprenticeship), Sébastien enthusiastically demonstrates that he is as talented and that his seasonal fare, equally poised between surf and turf produce, is as enticing as ever. His dishes are precise, sophisticated, even playful at times. The bread and brioche baked in their own bakery are finger licking good. The splendid wine list, with Rhône wines in a prominent position, adds the final flourish to this gourmet masterpiece.