In the upper reaches of Périgueux, chef Gilles Gourvat (a local lad) has set up shop in a tastefully restored farmhouse. His modern recipes pay tribute to Périgord traditions, in which local produce (truffles in season) is cast in the star role. Examples: whole duck breast roasted with cèpes; scrambled eggs and truffles; semi-cooked duck foie gras smoked in hay. Heavenly.