Since going back to his roots in the region of his birth, Christophe Dufossé has been flourishing. This pretty château set in verdant grounds now has a light-filled contemporary extension. The chef champions organic, self-sufficient and sustainable surf and turf cooking centred on vegetables and produce from the region – and not only its fish. Every dish is delicately prepared – which does not mean it is not generous – and enhanced by intensely flavoured, classic sauces. A standout dish would be the Boulogne scallops with endives and black truffle, a remarkably harmonious composition. Lastly, let us take time to acknowledge the bread and the sweets, including the extraordinary and enticing dessert trolley.