As enthusiastic as ever, Guillaume Monjuré, whom we first met in Lyon and Corrençon-en-Vercors, lights his wood-burning oven at dawn to prepare his signature ember-cooking. In the family barn, renovated in a table d’hôte vein with Chrystel, his sommelière partner, the hearth occupies the centre of the dining area and the chef cooks surrounded by exclusive groups of diners (no more than twenty at a time). Natural before all else, his cuisine exalts vegetables, herbs and locally farmed fish, although he happily makes forays to the Mediterranean for a change of scenery. The (almost) set menus can change daily. Concise selection of organic and natural tipples.