The Mayan site of Toniña, at an altitude of 900m, experienced its golden age in the 8C by asserting itself against King Chitam of Palenque before falling into oblivion in the 10C. Nowadays Toniña has preserved traces of the Mayan presence, such as the awesome terraced acropolis topped by the Templo del Espejo Humeante. Don't miss the Mural de las Cuatro Eras (Panel of the Four Eras), a splendid stucco sculpture. The site museum contains superb testimonies of the city's history.