The photogenic Plaza de los Coches is lined on one side by a rampart and on the other by carefully restored colonial buildings. This is where the public letter-writers sat down to edit the missives of their illiterate clients in the novel by Gabriel García Márquez, Love in the Time of Cholera. Under the arcades known as Portal de los Dulces are stalls to tempt you with sweets and goodies: don't miss this opportunity to sample the Caribbean confectionery sold here.