The Chocó departamento, one of the poorest regions in Colombia, is also one of the most beautiful. Its spectacular, choppy coastline fringes the Pacific, while inland the sumptuous virgin forests are difficult to reach but brimming with abundant and unimagined flora and fauna. Yet despite a strong military presence that is gradually bringing stability back to the area, Chocó remains disdained by tourists, as getting there requires time and money.