This space is happening and easy-breezy with an open kitchen framed by white subway tiles, high ceilings, and a curing room filled with rows and rows of dry-aged ducks.While waiting 45 minutes for the signature entrée, start with thin slivers of kampachi garnished with preserved perilla or swipe large corn and nori fritters through a cloud-like mousse of corn studded with trout roe. Wood-fired pizzas are always a good idea. And for dessert, the dangerously comforting burnt cheesecake is a must, arriving with a top as black as the night and a center that's as airy and delicate as ever.