Obelisk attracts a surprisingly young, casual crowd for a spot that has been serving a fixed five-course menu five nights a week since 1987. It's likely due to the restaurant’s warm, neighborhood feel. The light and seasonal Italian cooking begins with a bang, as an assortment of fantastic antipasti is quickly ushered to the table: perhaps creamy burrata imported from Lazio or a hot croquette filled with melting cheese. Dishes are never fussy and are presented simply, with honest flavors and purposeful ingredients. Among the choices, go for the veal chop for two, with Roma beans, potatoes and dandelion greens. All breads and desserts are made in-house. Don't expect to dash in; the full experience is worth the two to three hours.