Scrunched into a bare-bones space scarcely more ostentatious than the humble root vegetable whose name it bears, the appeal here is more than skin-deep. At first glance, an air of insouciance seems only fitting for a wine bar with pours exclusively from hip natural producers, but the friendly service will quickly allay any fear of snobbery. The best surprise is the cooking, emerging from a tiny corner kitchenette tucked behind the bar and offering an impressive degree of polish. Utilizing local and seasonal ingredients, past highlights include focaccia with cultured butter, sablefish with gigante beans and risotto with charred scallions.