French bistros can be predictable, but this neighborhood corner in Harbord Village takes a wonderfully refreshing approach. One could spend all day taking in the design: The marble bar is a worthy perch for admiring the gorgeous, patterned floors, forest-green ceiling and stylish, wood-paneled walls. And that patio – it’s a summer oasis. The cooking, meanwhile, hits all the right marks, and feels unquestionably French in its richness and satisfaction. Chicken liver mousse eclair with cherry preserves? Hiramasa crudo with coconut leche de tigre or steak tartare with garlic aioli? Order all of it and more.