From the outset, the chef resolved to create an old school sushi restaurant. The no-nonsense shop name, the big, bold sign and the wooden menu board hung on the wall all hark back to the sushi shops of old. The sloping counter with a groove along one side prevents soy sauce spillage—an idea from his mentor. Sushi rice is slightly sour and generously portioned, toppings thick, like in the good old days. Tuna, as a star topping, is served with great care in sets of three nigiri.