Recently it has become the fashion among sushi restaurants to show off the business cards or other tokens of tuna wholesalers to signal that they are the real deal. Keita Aoyama is the diametric opposite. Hearing this bit of news, you probably like him already—fortunately, as affinity with the owner-chef is a vital element of the sushi shop experience. Aoyama is a man of kind temperament. Nigiri are formed large; cut toppings are thick and broad, according to the characteristics of each fish, so as to wrap around the vinegared rice when formed, making them impressive.