Fascination with Edo culinary culture led this chef to open a restaurant in Nihombashi. Knowing that Edokko (natives of Tokyo) would eat thick-battered tempura soaked in sauce, the chef uses the technique completely opposite to the thin coating he learned as an apprentice. But the thicker coating traps air bubbles, imparting a fragrant nose and light texture. In an homage to the port of call where tempura arrived from Portugal, the fried feast begins with shrimp toast, a speciality of Nagasaki.