Aged 16, the owner-chef began his career as an apprentice in the kitchen, before opening his own restaurant in 1980 – it's been a local favourite ever since. The short menu captures the quintessence of traditional Tianjin cooking with wok hei-laden dishes. Start with the "arhat belly" – a terrine of pork tripe stuffed with pork rind and meat. The Tianjin-style braised pork intestine in a rich, savoury glaze is testament to the chef's impressive skills.