Appealing to a wider market with its lower price points, but without sacrificing quality or flavour, Rong Cun is a spinoff of the decidedly upmarket brand Xin Rong Ji. It specialises in no-frills farm-style fare prepared in traditional ways. In their signature red-braised river fish, velvety, umami-laden meat comes in a dense, rich broth, best enjoyed with a bowl of steamed rice. Razor clams in scallion oil bring out the natural briny sweetness and aromas.