‘De nuit’ in French translates as ‘by night’ and the room aptly sports a black, grey and blue colour scheme, dotted with brass trim and velvet upholstery. The young kitchen team is led by the Hong Kong head chef, whose 8- and 10-course set menus are rooted in French traditions and driven by the seasons. They cleverly layer textures and flavours with aplomb and a light hand in signatures like lamb with harissa, or salmon with gooseberry.