The owner had been selling fried eels and squids for ages before he started serving migao by chance in 1985. Surprisingly, his sticky rice topped with braised pork, sliced cucumber, fish floss and peanut quickly surpassed his original offerings in popularity – and he has focused on migao and sishen herbal soup ever since. The gravy on his migao has a peppery aroma to go alongside the rich and deep flavours.